Hiking Boots & Bikinis……with outdoor air-conditioning!

Wednesday, 01 September 2010 15:29

Written by Editor

Walking in Spain in the summer – unthinkable! Keen as I am, I would have wholeheartedly agreed with that sentiment until our recent introduction to this delightful river walk near Nerja. The route is great fun and surprisingly comfortable to negotiate because, even on the hottest of days, it enjoys the ‘twin-cooler’ effect of fresh mountain breezes and knee-deep running water along the way.

Most rivers in our region dry up long before the summer, but the Rio Chíllar flows all year round, so head out prepared to get more than just your feet wet. The ‘boots and bikinis’ of the title were very prevalent when we did the walk in mid-July and early August, and while a pair of old trainers or even the plastic ‘croc’ style shoes would be OK, this is definitely no place for flip-flops or sandals.

The river bed is stony but not really slippery, so you can be fairly confident when placing your feet, although some of our group felt a little better using their hiking poles.

With no gradient to speak of, the going is easy enough, but the stones make for rather tricky progress in places and the strong current could make it uncomfortable for really young children or small dogs. However, cooling off in one of the many shallow plunge pools is the real pleasure on this walk, so take a towel or just ‘drip-dry’ as you go.

Getting to the start

Finding the start of this lovely walk is probably going to cause the most difficulty. From km292 on the A7 motorway, go down towards Nerja on the MA5105 and at the third roundabout, turn left heading east on the old N340 (Calle de Pescia). Turn left at the third roundabout and follow Calle de Julio Romero uphill to a sharp left turn at the top. The narrow road soon becomes a rough concrete track that descends to the river bed, which you should keep on your left. Go past the concrete works and, with care, you can follow the river bed for a few hundred metres more. Parked cars are the clue as to where to stop but - even if you do happen to own a 4x4 - some large rocks will eventually block any further progress. On weekends and holidays, the place will be mobbed with families avoiding the beach, so it’s advisable to go midweek, if at all possible.

From your car parking spot, all you need to do is simply pick up and follow the river as it winds gently uphill. Even if this lower part of the riverbed appears to have dried up – which it certainly had not when we went – you’ll be sure to find running water as you approach the small hydroelectric power station (1.5km). Once your feet are wet, you only have to take care when climbing the 50m concrete ramp just before the hydro-station, which even in August was slick with the overspill from the water channel feeding the station.

Tall eucalyptus trees on both riverbanks provide ample shade as the path criss-crosses the river for a while, or you can just stay in the water and enjoy splashing your companions! Keep going upstream for as long as you want – there are no signposts or junctions to worry about – and watch out for a partly hidden waterfall on the right hand side.
As the valley narrows, the river current gets stronger and the walk changes – for the better! In places where the gorge is narrow enough to touch both sides at once, the river echoes noisily and bright pink oleander and orange lantana cling to the steep slopes overhead. Numerous species of birds, butterflies and brightly coloured dragonflies forage above and around the river – though, strangely, not a single fish was spotted in the crystal clear water.

How far you go upstream will be determined by your enthusiasm for the increasingly forceful current, which makes for slow going at times, although the more adventurous will be rewarded with bigger rocks to scramble around and ever deepening plunge pools and refreshing cascades to enjoy.
Wherever you choose to turn around, be sure to pick a pleasant spot for a picnic and maybe even have another cooling dip before setting off back downstream to return to your car – it will be much easier on the legs, but slightly more difficult to stay upright!

Be careful: this is not a particularly tough walk, so it’s ideal for a family day out, but remember that water and excited children do not always mix. Take it easy, as even experienced walkers could suffer a wobble in the strong current and a sprained ankle here would make for a very difficult and watery extrication. For obvious reasons, this is not one to try just after – or just before – heavy rain. In the winter, the river is likely to be too strong and too cold to even attempt the walk – so if you can’t make it before September is out, keep it for next summer.