Countless cacti in the snow …
Until this week there wasn’t much of the cold white stuff falling in the Sierra de las Nieves but just outside the village of Casarabonela there is a thriving botanical garden dedicated to these prickly plants.
The Mora y Bravard collection of cacti and other succulents contains around 11,000 plants belonging to 45 botanical families and some 2,500 different species – the biggest collection in Europe and, apparently, one of the best in the world. Originally the brainchild of Edwige Bravard and Joan Gabriel Mora who lived in Mallorca until they moved to Casarabonela in 1995, it was donated to the town hall and the purpose-built gardens and greenhouses to display it were opened to the public last spring. 
As anyone who has ever tried gardening here in Andalucia knows, plants such as cacti and succulents are indispensable in our blisteringly hot summers as they retain moisture (frequently being composed of about 80 per cent water) and can survive in July and August while ill-adapted shrubs and flowers all too often give up in the heat, wither and die. And the range of shapes, sizes and shades on display here is staggering, from the huge and spikey to the bushy and prickly, from sculptural twists to tiny florets.
The garden is cleverly laid out on the hillside with stone paths and raised beds. The view across the valley of the village sprawled across the towering mountains is equally beautiful. Plants from all corners of the world are arranged in these beds – Southern USA and Mexico, South America, Canary Islands and Morocco, South Africa, East Africa, India and Madagascar, to name only some. And flowers can be seen all year round because different species bloom at different seasons – often small but brightly coloured splashes of colour on what was apparently an impenetrable sea of spikes.
On the top level are the greenhouses where the plants are distributed according to their countries of origin. They creep, climb, curve, shoot upwards, bend into contorted shapes; some resemble stones, others snakes – there is no end to their variety. On a raised display area behind glass are tiny delicate cacti looking like sea creatures in an aquarium in a variety of coral-like greys, whites and pinks against the small gravel.
There is a purpose-built visitors' centre with information and guides (the day we went we met the charming Maria who spoke excellent English and was only to happy to take us round) as well as a small shop, meeting rooms and a scientific department. You can also buy a variety of cacti and succulents to take home for your own garden. A cafeteria-restaurant is, I think, only in the planning stage but the gardens are only a couple of minutes away from a very nice local venta serving a good menu del dia, so you won’t have to go hungry or thirsty!
Casarabonela is off the main Guadalhorce motorway (A-357) up to Ardales, Campillos and Ronda. From the Malaga direction drive northwards until you get to the junction of the A-354 and turn left through Zalea, continuing until you see the town in front of you. The gardens are on the left of this road just past the large venta, Casaron de Bonela. There are quite obvious brown tourist signs from the main highway. If you fancy a scenic circular route, and have the time, then go back via Alozaina and Coin (or drive up that way if you prefer). This route is even more spectacular for views of the countryside and the mountains.
For further information see www.cactus casarabonela.uma.es
Written by Jean Joss
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